Michael Storer Boat Design

Dayboat/Launch Modifications

An email arrived on October 9:
dear mr. storer
i spoke to you on saturday 8th october, regarding extending the cuddy cabin making it possible to place a double berth. also i would like to rake the windscreen to give the boat a cruiser look. would you please explain the fitting and description of the lead shoe you mentioned on your web site.  thanking you for your help and hope to hear from you soon
yours sincerly Mr Brookes

I replied:

Dear Mr Brooks

I have done a quick redraw of the interior and given it a more cruiser like appearance with cabin sides - which can be thin plywood (6mm) so won't add too much weight.  There is a veed windscreen.  (A raked windscreen wouldn't match the appearance of the boat too well - it will be the only angled line on the boat).

The berth fits in OK, but requires the bulkhead be moved back a bit.

I have moved the outboard back a little too - like Pop & I on the website.  Means it can be pulled up easily.

The only problem I can see is that there is no place in the front cabin for the portapotti - which means it will have to be used in the cockpit.

If this is a problem I would suggest going with the Pop&I solution of having the double berth across the back of the cockpit (a much nicer place to sleep).  With the canvas side curtains it is weatherproof and a proper size as well rather than being a triangle.

Hope this is useful - feel free to contact me again

Michael Storer

Interior Modifications in General:
From the previous page

The do's and don'ts of the interior include
1/ You can't go up any higher
2/ The cabin has to be light.
3/ The seats, galley etc has to be bonded to the sides of the boat - the interior components support the sides of the hull.

From the Plan
The original boat was for commercial hire to the public which necessitated the skeg with ballast – this was to accommodate the survey requirement that the boat be stable with all six of the hire crew standing on the edge of the boat.  It is probably overdoing it for normal use and sensible people.

Some builders have replaced the skeg with a similar bottom runner to the skids on either side (45 x 45mm) for shallower draft and some saving in materials.

If changing the interior substantially simply make up some temporary bulkheads out of chipboard (approx 20mm thick) to go in the positions of the seat webs or other structure that you want to eliminate.  After the hull is together you can measure out the actual size of the parts you wish to add.

In general there are three rules with this little boat.
1/ You cannot add weight up high.  So if adding cabin sides it is recommended that you do it in 6mm plywood.
2/ You should be careful about adding weight to the back of the boat – otherwise the stern will start to drag and the performance and fuel economy will suffer.
3/ The simplicity of construction is largely possible because the hull sides and bottom are supported by the furniture.  There needs to be furniture effectively glued to the inside of both side panels as well as the bottom panel (the original function was carried out by the seats and seat webs).  It is particularly good if the furniture extends far enough in from the hull sides to meet the location of the bottom skids under the boat.

The most obvious change that people have made is to extend the canopy forward so it overhangs the foredeck and then to add a windscreen (see pic on plan cover - shown below for reference)



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