The problem with design is that it is relatively cheap. Sometimes fixed price. But it is not realised what successive design iterations are doing to the boat.In the end Chris was unable to complete the boat. Partially because the hull turned out to be in much worse condition than expected. But also despite some nice positives coming in terms of usable space below, other things just seemed to get more and more complex.
Racing shows that what you know is what you know. It doesn’t matter if the boat is less than perfect. So where is it best to put in the effort to improve results. Boat setup, knowing how to adjust for different wind conditions, practicing skills until they become automatic, sailing as much as possible … and teaching others.
Torture boards are used for the highest grade of smoothing for visual smoothness of the whole structure. Fairing a strip planked hull. Fairing a join between adjacent plywood sheets in a hull or deck. Fairing a composite structure Fairing deck substructure. Deckframes and deck stringers ready to take plywood.
An older wooden or plywood boat you want to repair. And oil or diesel fuel have soaked into some of the areas you want to work on. There are no easy solutions. But this one might work.
When is it worth fixing an old racing dinghy and when is it best to ditch it?
How to repair and improve Plywood Boats – Dents, holes, replace bottom in 24 hours, making paint and varnish non skid
All the best material on boat repairs. From restoring old sailing dinghies for racing, fixing holes in canoe, replacing whole hull panels or the neatest and easiest way of doing a really nice texture of nonskid using sugar. And the non skid can be done in paint or varnish
A correction to the OzRacer RV plans.There was a small discrepancy in the corners of the boat which can be filled. Or if the panels are not cut yet they can be corrected so no filling is required. Apologies to all affected – I do my best but sometimes something sneaks through. Thanks Ryan for the building feedback.
How much fibreglass is really necessary to prevent damage to a plywood boat for most users?For a long time I’ve been suspicious that both designers and builders are in a never ending spiral of more and more heavier fibreglass.I argue, with data from the Turner designed Jarcat, that the weights of glass are clearly excessive for most uses and users of small boats.
A rare beast, a circa 1960s 12 square metre sharpie with some of the original rig is for sale. I am not involved, but in the interests of helping preserve a little bit of Australian sailing and boat design history I would like to help find it a good home.The 12sq metre (heavyweight) Sharpie came to Australia for the 1956 Olympics. NZ first, Oz second.However the boat totally changed the approach to the design of Australian skiffs. Thought you might be interested to read my understanding of the design issues and influence.How the Sharpie name went from the USA to Europe and then to Australia – and how it changed our boats.
Melanie in the UK wrote to me. She has just bought an old Mirror dinghy and started sailing for the first time.Problem is that the boat leaks and she doesn’t want to stop using the boat until the end of the season.I have a philosophy of keeping older boats on the water and not pulling them off for months on end until you have the time to do the job.So the article here is useful to see what can be done with an old leaky plywood sailing dinghy to keep it going.It is perfect sailing weather at the moment in the UK and it is better she is out there learning but with the worst of the leaks gone.With a disciplined approach she should be able to get all of this done in a week or so. The general leaks fixed permanently and the rotted area reinforced so that the boat won’t break.
There was the suggestion that very coarse sandpaper was the best to use on a timber surface to ensure good bonding when gluing or fiberglassing the surface. This is not recommended – the following explains why. There was the suggestion that very coarse sandpaper was the best to use on a timber surface to ensure […]
This is a problem most of use come up against at least once. However it is unlikely to happen a second time. Richard wrote to me asking why his epoxy was still soft 3 days later. He suggested it might be because of one of: 1. The immediate guess is that it’s been too cold […]
There are two tricks to sikaflexing between strips. Use the Sika Primer – it improves the bond strength to the timber for a permanent job. You can get away without it often, but it changes the situation from a fairly strong bond to a hugely strong bond (you’ll know this if you have ever removed […]
Paint vs Varnish Paint is more durable and will protect the epoxy and timber the best. Varnish hides a rough surface better. If you have done a rough job the timber grain will hide it. Make sure the varnish contains ultra-violet filters. It is a photo from the Goat Island Skiff Calendar put together by […]
If ply sheets are precoated it saves lots of time. It is easier to coat areas on the flat Gravity works with you to keep the coated surface level so there can be no runs. It is easier to get an even distribution of epoxy on the surface There is much less chance of missing […]
Fibreglassing 3 – bigger areas – centreboards, rudders, leeboards, keels and larger hull areas requires a different method. Normally glass is draped dry over a clean dry surface and epoxy is applied to the outside and pushed in through the weave.
Most quality boatbuilding epoxy manufacturers have a structural boatbuilding product. They normally are “high solids” boatbuilding epoxies that have uneven resin to hardener ratios (2:1, 3:1, 4:1 or 5:1) which you have to add powder to make a glue or filleting mix The same companies often produce pregelled products that are mixed in a 1:1 […]
One of the great leaps forward available to us when using epoxy is being able to eliminate fastenings (screws,nails, bolts etc) from the structure. Many builders now only use fasteners to temporarily hold things together while the glue sets up.The temporary fasteners are removed and can be re-used many times. Eliminating fastenings also speeds up […]