Article in Small Craft Advisor about the GIS

It was a huge co-incidence actually. I had been speaking to a couple of people about good magazines in the USA to advertise in. They both said “Small Craft Advisor“. So I emailed them. I received a reply saying that as my email arrived they had been looking at one of my web postings about […]

Koala builds a Eureka Canoe in Europe!

Since finding a UK Agent and doing some linguistic work on my website the spread of boats being built to my plans has become … rather large. The Excerpt is written by “Koala” in Slovenia (sorry Koala for my confusion about Slovenia/Slovakia) who is building a Eureka – the reason for the name? Maybe he […]

Q&A – gluing endgrain – including Plywood and Scarfs

Gluing Endgrain Gluing timber end grain with epoxySee drawing of endgrain right.. The basic problem is that end grain is highly absorbent so it can steal the resin from the join leaving insufficient for good bonding.  The trick … is to feed the end grain some mixed resin before the glue mix is put on […]

Q&A – Keep epoxy warm for good handling – Lightbox

There are huge advantages in keeping the epoxy at a slightly raised temperature. * It flows out better onto the work * It mixes easier * The curing kicks off faster in cold weather (and the box can easily only be turned on when needed. There are huge advantages in keeping the epoxy at a […]

Q&A – Should I use coarse sandpaper on timber or ply to make the epoxy stick.

There  was the suggestion that very coarse sandpaper was the best to use on a timber surface to ensure good bonding when gluing or fiberglassing the surface. This is not recommended – the following explains why. There  was the suggestion that very coarse sandpaper was the best to use on a timber surface to ensure […]

Q&A Why hasn’t the epoxy cured – coating gluing glue

This is a problem most of use come up against at least once. However it is unlikely to happen a second time. Richard wrote to me asking why his epoxy was still soft 3 days later.  He suggested it might be because of one of: 1. The immediate guess is that it’s been too cold […]

Teak Decks and Sikaflex, 5200 etc

There are two tricks to sikaflexing between strips. Use the Sika Primer – it improves the bond strength to the timber for a permanent job. You can get away without it often, but it changes the situation from a fairly strong bond to a hugely strong bond (you’ll know this if you have ever removed […]
Goat Island Skiff Plan - simple building and very fast

Q&A – Painting and Varnishing Epoxy

Paint vs Varnish Paint is more durable and will protect the epoxy and timber the best. Varnish hides a rough surface better.  If you have done a rough job the timber grain will hide it.  Make sure the varnish contains ultra-violet filters.  It is a photo from the Goat Island Skiff Calendar put together by […]

Discounted Plans – 50-66% off

I’m trying a bit of an experiment. I am significantly discounting a number of my plans. I have recently updated a number of older plans to be available in a PDF format and delivered by email. And I am not playing around. The discounts are between 50 and 66%Plans for the same boats on paper […]

Q&A – Reducing labor and waste when using epoxy

There are a number of labour and materials saving techniques that are applicable when using epoxy. Contents of this section Wet-on-Wet Coating and Dewaxing Cured Epoxy. Building strong lightweight boats – a note on the use of epoxy One Hit coating and gluing Wet-on-Wet Coating and Dewaxing Cured Epoxy. As epoxy cures some of the […]

Q&A – Saving time by precoating plywood sheets with epoxy.

If ply sheets are precoated it saves lots of time. It is easier to coat areas on the flat Gravity works with you to keep the coated surface level so there can be no runs. It is easier to get an even distribution of epoxy on the surface There is much less chance of missing […]

Q&A – Fibreglassing method 3 – Method for large areas

Fiberglassing larger areas is done differently from small. Large areas require that the glass be draped dry over the surface then the epoxy is applied over the glass and worked through the surface. The example here is glassing a centreboard but the principle is the same for much bigger areas like the bottoms, sides and […]

Q&A – Fibreglassing method 1 – small areas

This is the normal method for fibreglassing small areas – typically using fibreglass tape to hull seams. Here I document the process of coating the hull and glasstaping the chines in one hit. Integration of different steps in this way is one of the major efficiencies of modern epoxy boatbuilding. However if simply glass taping […]