In general I don’t like most sailing books and most sailing lessons.I think that a learner doesn’t need to learn many new words. Also because they don’t explain the correct principles in the beginning their explanations become really complicated.If you understand how to use a sail to get power – when it is at maximum power and when it isn’t it all becomes very logical.
It always bugged me about how people said that some powerboats and fast sailing dinghies would “plane” to reach high speed. But multihulls reach higher speed, but they “don’t plane”.It’s illogical to have two different explanations.Also how a classical “displacement hull” go much faster on an ocean wave. Theory says it has a speed limit no matter the power you throw in.I worked out a reasonable explanation for all this but it shows “planing” does not exist.
The finally famous Goat Island Skiff is the lightest and simplest 16ft sailing boat I could come up with. Simple to Build with Modern Performance. She will sail well and handle impeccably at all times with 4 adults and is fastest with one or two aboard. Plans are extremely detailed and there is an active community of builders on Facebook.
Fixing up old and antique plywood racing sailing dinghies – International Cadet, Sabre, Sharpie, Cherub, Heron, Snipe, Lightning, Windmill, Fireball, TS16
OK … I decided to keep the old racing dinghy and fix it up. How do I put my effort in the right places to get the maximum results? A grab bag of methods for joining plywood, working out sizes, making centreboards and rudders and more.
How sailing and paddling canoe shapes differ.How traditional canoe designs work really well and a lot of modern ones don’t.Building a canoe – is ply or cedar strip better?How to build a lightweight canoe – selection of materials – ply vs strip plank and timber speciesBooks for canoebuilding.
When is it worth fixing an old racing dinghy and when is it best to ditch it?
The conservative viewpoint is that traditional rigs are not very efficient. However allied to efficient hulls and set up correctly, lug and sprit rigs can be very efficient indeed – not too much slower than “modern” rigs, particularly when the same lessons are applied to trad sails and way cheaper.This is a WIKI drawn from the group on the Storerboats forum discussions on setting up lug and sprit rigs for best performance building on the information in my webpage.
Racing shows that what you know is what you know. It doesn’t matter if the boat is less than perfect. So where is it best to put in the effort to improve results. Boat setup, knowing how to adjust for different wind conditions, practicing skills until they become automatic, sailing as much as possible … and teaching others.
There are lots of tips for building and designing boats on the net.“Rules of thumb” are often quoted to help with the calculation of how much sail or how much keel or centreboard area or how big a mast is allowed to be and many other areas. Can a boat be stretched or shrunk or lengthened?But how correct are they? Are they the best guide?
[Translate] A quick jump to the end for those wanting to know the outcome. George’s club yardstick is 1117. That’s the same as an Enterprise or slightly slower than an OK. George is an experienced larger yacht racer and you can see his learning curve in this article. I’m sure there is more to come […]
[Translate] Many people want to learn how to sail or have done a course in sailing and want to get their own boat. The two best options are below – this page concentrates on the second one! 1/ You can build one of my boats (I know … you were expecting me to say that!). […]
[Translate] This is a reprint of an article from the OzGoose website with a preamble by me and some reorganisation to make it more useful to owners of other boats. As you may now we are one of the main developers of the knowledgebase for lug rigs, setup, rigging, control and performance. See the list […]
Melanie in the UK wrote to me. She has just bought an old Mirror dinghy and started sailing for the first time.Problem is that the boat leaks and she doesn’t want to stop using the boat until the end of the season.I have a philosophy of keeping older boats on the water and not pulling them off for months on end until you have the time to do the job.So the article here is useful to see what can be done with an old leaky plywood sailing dinghy to keep it going.It is perfect sailing weather at the moment in the UK and it is better she is out there learning but with the worst of the leaks gone.With a disciplined approach she should be able to get all of this done in a week or so. The general leaks fixed permanently and the rotted area reinforced so that the boat won’t break.
Never join boat decks the way you join up panels in a house. Cracks and big failures will result.
One of the most important things as a designer or sailor is to keep an open mind, but also to be able to analyze things in light of real experience and prior knowledge.This article, after a bit of a spiel, goes on to give some great resources that “opened my eyes” at different times in my life.They focus on areas of structural design, sailing, sail aerodynamics and touch on a bit more.
A new design for a “Stand Up Paddleboard”. It is designed for excellent travelling speeds for less effort but retains the stability of a beginner/intermediate board. It can be built much lighter than the standard weight of 12 to 14kg (28lbs). Strategies for major weight saving are in the plan
[Translate] Why Epoxy is Good for Boatbuilding – Prevents Rot, Gapfilling, Good Adhesion A 30 year review of using epoxy for boatbuilding. How radically everything changed in the 1970s Glues – Epoxy vs Resorcinol – short answer Glassing – Epoxy Resin vs Polyester Resin – short answer Preventing Rot Pt 1 – The Good, the […]
[Translate] It is a bit hard finding information on my forum as the list is not very ordered, so I have attempted to fix this.There is a general building section then each boat is in alphabetical order.To see all the images you may need to become a member, however, they are a good bunch and […]