The conservative viewpoint is that traditional rigs are not very efficient. However allied to efficient hulls and set up correctly, lug and sprit rigs can be very efficient indeed – not too much slower than “modern” rigs, particularly when the same lessons are applied to trad sails and way cheaper.This is a WIKI drawn from the group on the Storerboats forum discussions on setting up lug and sprit rigs for best performance building on the information in my webpage.
Achieve best Cost/Performance with Traditional Sailing Rigs – Balance, standing lugs and sprit rig sails
A guide for choosing cheaper alternative rigs. Balance Lug, Standing Lug, Sprit, Lateen and more. These rigs typically save a lot of money over conventional sailplans and set up right offer much the same performance. They respond to the same principles. Are boomless sails OK?
Over the years we have been slowly and carefully developing the balance lug rigs we use.on the OzRacers, the BETH sailing canoe and the Goat Island Skiff.For a long time we have offered the best page on the net to assist setup of small boat lugsails. Now a new page with many updates
Fixing up old and antique plywood racing sailing dinghies – International Cadet, Sabre, Sharpie, Cherub, Heron, Snipe, Lightning, Windmill, Fireball, TS16
OK … I decided to keep the old racing dinghy and fix it up. How do I put my effort in the right places to get the maximum results? A grab bag of methods for joining plywood, working out sizes, making centreboards and rudders and more.
How do you rig your Goat Island Skiff or other balance lug rigged boat? This page will be useful for everyone, but specifically assist Goat owners in selection of rope, rope lengths and show all the rigging details. We have also found a number of cheaper ways of doing things from our experience in the Philippines. Halyard, downhaul, outhaul, lashings, rope fittings, rudders, centreboard.
[Translate] A quick jump to the end for those wanting to know the outcome. George’s club yardstick is 1117. That’s the same as an Enterprise or slightly slower than an OK. George is an experienced larger yacht racer and you can see his learning curve in this article. I’m sure there is more to come […]
[Translate] This is a reprint of an article from the OzGoose website with a preamble by me and some reorganisation to make it more useful to owners of other boats. As you may now we are one of the main developers of the knowledgebase for lug rigs, setup, rigging, control and performance. See the list […]
One of the most important things as a designer or sailor is to keep an open mind, but also to be able to analyze things in light of real experience and prior knowledge.This article, after a bit of a spiel, goes on to give some great resources that “opened my eyes” at different times in my life.They focus on areas of structural design, sailing, sail aerodynamics and touch on a bit more.
Getting rid of a familiar crease in many lugsails.
In general I don’t like most sailing books and most sailing lessons.I think that a learner doesn’t need to learn many new words. Also because they don’t explain the correct principles in the beginning their explanations become really complicated.If you understand how to use a sail to get power – when it is at maximum power and when it isn’t it all becomes very logical.
John Goodman who recently spent 5 days semi racing a Goat Island Skiff in the Texas200 event got back to me with some observations and even some pictures of aspects of the boat and the sailing.I have responded with suggestions to make some further improvements. Between John and me there are some useful tips about setting up a boat for more speed.However the standard setup of the Goat is fine for most – it is still pretty quick in standard form.There is advice for both lug and sprit traditional rigs here.
The Finn Dinghy has been one of the most important of the racing classes over the past six decades.It was always in the forefront of sailing developments.One fellow contacted asking if there were plans to build a Finn dinghy … and I was able to find a partial answer.
[Translate] Why Epoxy is Good for Boatbuilding – Prevents Rot, Gapfilling, Good Adhesion A 30 year review of using epoxy for boatbuilding. How radically everything changed in the 1970s Glues – Epoxy vs Resorcinol – short answer Glassing – Epoxy Resin vs Polyester Resin – short answer Preventing Rot Pt 1 – The Good, the […]
[Translate] FAQ – scroll down for information on Epoxy, Timber, Building methods, saving money, sailing, maintenance, repair. Also see the OZ PD Racer FAQ and the NEW Storerboats Forum for info on Modern wood/epoxy boatbuilding Lightweight boatbuilding Performance decisions in boatbuilding/design Plywood grades An overview of using carbon fibre and much more Why Epoxy is […]
Making a boat light may make the hull distort more thus losing some of the advantage. But is is possible to build light without distortion. The answer is YES.
A great article from the Open Goose website on setting up lug rigs of all types.
Sailing too fast upwind in a non trapeze dinghy means you lose a lot of pointing angle. So what is the correct compromise between high and slow and low and fast. Explanation involves the increase of drag around hullspeed.
[Translate] Several of the Group were building NACA foils. But the OzRacer and OzGoose Plans have templates for quick and accurate shaping. Making without the templates … several were feeling that they couldn’t make them to a greater accuracy than 1/16th of an inch. So some were suggesting using a CNC machine. The discussion goes on […]