I was going to put more pictures up here but decided not to. The story is much too good to make a short version valid. In a way it is nothing special – just a family building three little boats – but I think there IS something special. The Story is here with all the read more →
The first part was up last week. This week we talk about traditional vs modern sailtypes – everyone knows I am a fan of trad rigs because of their low cost – but here I go into the influences on the other side. I love the efficiency of modern rigs so I use all the read more →
INDEX FOR THIS MONSTER EUREKA CANOE THREAD – MILESTONESEven more info at Peter Hyndman’s Eureka Pages Marking out the plywood and cutting Joining up the Prefabricated panels and starting stitching Filleting on the inside of the Eureka Canoethe tidy way Marking out the canoe bulkheads Getting ready to put the decks in place – I read more → Furled Sails – They call themselves the “World’s First Sailing Podcast” based in North America. Anyway, last week Christy and Noel called me up chatted to me for a couple of hours. So they have an interview with me on their site followed by a part 2 next week. This looks like the permanent linkhttp://www.furledsails.com/article.php3?article=760 read more →
Peter Hyndman’s original pages on the Goat Island Skiff.
Peter Hyndman has been boiling down the essence of the Eureka Canoe he has been building. So a great new website that runs through all the processes of building in a step by step way including pictures and description of each step. It also has a link to the videos from our recent picnic in read more →
Well, I’m excited. One of the biggest woodwork sites in the universe has decided that it is OK for the Storer Boat Plans FORUM to be on their site. This is great because there is already a lot of Storer Stuff about The EUREKA CANOEThe OZ PDRacerThe GOAT ISLAND SKIFFBETH Sailing CanoeThe NEW ROWBOAT that read more → This clip demonstrates the lovely manners of the boat, (to replace our aging “doing donuts” movie). Note that Michael does a gybe or two while standing, this is as much a reflection of the stability of the boat as it is of his cat-like agility! If ever there were any doubt about the ability of read more →
Since finding a UK Agent and doing some linguistic work on my website the spread of boats being built to my plans has become … rather large. The Excerpt is written by “Koala” in Slovenia (sorry Koala for my confusion about Slovenia/Slovakia) who is building a Eureka – the reason for the name? Maybe he read more →
Gluing Endgrain Gluing timber end grain with epoxySee drawing of endgrain right.. The basic problem is that end grain is highly absorbent so it can steal the resin from the join leaving insufficient for good bonding. The trick … is to feed the end grain some mixed resin before the glue mix is put on read more → There are huge advantages in keeping the epoxy at a slightly raised temperature. * It flows out better onto the work * It mixes easier * The curing kicks off faster in cold weather (and the box can easily only be turned on when needed. There are huge advantages in keeping the epoxy at a read more →
There was the suggestion that very coarse sandpaper was the best to use on a timber surface to ensure good bonding when gluing or fiberglassing the surface. This is not recommended – the following explains why. There was the suggestion that very coarse sandpaper was the best to use on a timber surface to ensure read more → This is a problem most of use come up against at least once. However it is unlikely to happen a second time. Richard wrote to me asking why his epoxy was still soft 3 days later. He suggested it might be because of one of: 1. The immediate guess is that it’s been too cold read more → There are two tricks to sikaflexing between strips. Use the Sika Primer – it improves the bond strength to the timber for a permanent job. You can get away without it often, but it changes the situation from a fairly strong bond to a hugely strong bond (you’ll know this if you have ever removed read more →
Most people know about using Cordless Drills to drive screws into timber now, but I remember when it was new and exciting! Here’s my spiel from my plans sets Cordless Battery Drill with Clutch. A marriage made in heaven. The drill can be battery (most convenient) or mains powered. It is best if it has read more → Paint vs Varnish Paint is more durable and will protect the epoxy and timber the best. Varnish hides a rough surface better. If you have done a rough job the timber grain will hide it. Make sure the varnish contains ultra-violet filters. Us My usual plan is to varnish the inside of open boats and read more → There are a number of labour and materials saving techniques that are applicable when using epoxy. Contents of this section Wet-on-Wet Coating and Dewaxing Cured Epoxy. Building strong lightweight boats – a note on the use of epoxy One Hit coating and gluing Wet-on-Wet Coating and Dewaxing Cured Epoxy. As epoxy cures some of the read more →
The two methods here save a lot of mess when building boats with epoxy. They also allow accurate and fast placement of mixed epoxy glue. Most supermarkets have varieties of “snap lock” bags. They have a seal across the opening of the bag that can be pressed together with finger pressure. They make it a read more →
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