[Translate] Birdsmouth masts are a really neat method of making a hollow round or elliptical mast. The mast is made of staves which have a 90 degree notch cut out of the stave’s side with a router or using a table saw. For a round mast, identical staves are made up then held together with […]
Torture boards are used for the highest grade of smoothing for visual smoothness of the whole structure. Fairing a strip planked hull. Fairing a join between adjacent plywood sheets in a hull or deck. Fairing a composite structure Fairing deck substructure. Deckframes and deck stringers ready to take plywood.
[Translate] Where restoring a traditionally built boat it is important to replace parts of the structure of a similar size to those that are being replaced or missing. Those sizes are termed “scantlings” The dominant source of this type of information for traditionally built workboats in Australia is the USL Code. It would probably be […]
Fixing up old and antique plywood racing sailing dinghies – International Cadet, Sabre, Sharpie, Cherub, Heron, Snipe, Lightning, Windmill, Fireball, TS16
OK … I decided to keep the old racing dinghy and fix it up. How do I put my effort in the right places to get the maximum results? A grab bag of methods for joining plywood, working out sizes, making centreboards and rudders and more.
I built the Quick Canoe in a day and a half. This is way slower than some of my customers.It is the first time I have been disappointed building a complete boat this quick.The risk of high expectations!But a day and a half with the problems I had is pretty good.
Melanie in the UK wrote to me. She has just bought an old Mirror dinghy and started sailing for the first time.Problem is that the boat leaks and she doesn’t want to stop using the boat until the end of the season.I have a philosophy of keeping older boats on the water and not pulling them off for months on end until you have the time to do the job.So the article here is useful to see what can be done with an old leaky plywood sailing dinghy to keep it going.It is perfect sailing weather at the moment in the UK and it is better she is out there learning but with the worst of the leaks gone.With a disciplined approach she should be able to get all of this done in a week or so. The general leaks fixed permanently and the rotted area reinforced so that the boat won’t break.
This is the second of my talks in the USA. It focuses a bit more on construction and some of the methods that can be used to keep a boat light and simple, but very strong and stiff.It also discusses how there is a “creep” in boatbuilding and design that increases the weight of boats way over what is really needed for a strong structure.
[Translate] It is the first boat he has built and Alex is not necessarily taking the quickest way. But he is reporting daily about his building and his ruminations on different subjects. It is a very popular boatbuilding item on the OZ woodwork forum. There have been around 13000 views of his thread already and […]
We have moved much of our activity to the Facebook Groups. See the links in the Menu above. But there are so many great questions asked and discussed on the Oz Woodwork Forums..
[Translate] At the Duckflat Autumn Boating School Bob Bauze built himself a Eureka Canoe. We used a few methods a bit different from the plan to speed things up and make some fitting work a bit easier. We used fillets on the inside of the boat instead of glass tape. This method adds a bit […]
[Translate] The first part was up last week. This week we talk about traditional vs modern sailtypes – everyone knows I am a fan of trad rigs because of their low cost – but here I go into the influences on the other side. I love the efficiency of modern rigs so I use all […]
[Translate] INDEX FOR THIS MONSTER EUREKA CANOE THREAD – MILESTONESEven more info at Peter Hyndman’s Eureka Pages Marking out the plywood and cutting Joining up the Prefabricated panels and starting stitching Filleting on the inside of the Eureka Canoethe tidy way Marking out the canoe bulkheads Getting ready to put the decks in place – […]
Interview with Michael Storer on why Australian boats are different.
[Translate] —gGluing Endgrain Gluing timber end grain with epoxySee drawing of endgrain right.. The basic problem is that end grain is highly absorbent so it can steal the resin from the join leaving insufficient for good bonding. The trick … is to feed the end grain some mixed resin before the glue mix is put […]
[Translate] There are huge advantages in keeping the epoxy at a slightly raised temperature. * It flows out better onto the work * It mixes easier * The curing kicks off faster in cold weather (and the box can easily only be turned on when needed. There are huge advantages in keeping the epoxy at […]
[Translate] There was the suggestion that very coarse sandpaper was the best to use on a timber surface to ensure good bonding when gluing or fiberglassing the surface. This is not recommended – the following explains why. There was the suggestion that very coarse sandpaper was the best to use on a timber surface to […]
[Translate] There are two tricks to sikaflexing between strips. Use the Sika Primer – it improves the bond strength to the timber for a permanent job. You can get away without it often, but it changes the situation from a fairly strong bond to a hugely strong bond (you’ll know this if you have ever […]
[Translate] Most people know about using Cordless Drills to drive screws into timber now, but I remember when it was new and exciting! Here’s my spiel from my plans sets Cordless Battery Drill with Clutch. A marriage made in heaven. The drill can be battery (most convenient) or mains powered. It is best if it […]