Glassing timber foils so they are smooth and fair – storer boat plans

Storerboats Dinghy Building and Sailing Wiki > Glassing timber foils so they are smooth and fair - storer boat plans

This is the method in the appendices of my plans. This photo is of the epoxy coated foils ready for sanding with sandpaper around a block ready for their final coat/s of epoxy, varnish or paint.

Making nice centreboards rudder blades and leeboards - storer boat plans

Preparation

Cut one piece glass to do both sides by passing over the nose. If you used the templates in my plans you will have a beautifully smooth shape timber blank to glass. There can be no bumps around the nose area.

Making nice centreboards rudder blades and leeboards - storer boat plans

 

put screws or long nails in the ends so you can hang it up so that it pivots with the nose upwards automatically. Often I use just one about 50mm from the leading (front rounded) edge so it will hang with the leading edge up.

Making nice centreboards rudder blades and leeboards - storer boat plans

use a plywood squeegee – plywood about 150mm long with a straight edge. Sand the corners and edges slightly so they are a little rounded and won’t catch on the threads.

Get a cheap 50mm 2″ brush and cut the bristles so they are about 25mm or an inch long. This allows very good control of the amount of resin and also allows you to use pressure inn a controlled way.

Don’t work in direct sun!!! 🙂

You can lay it on a flat surface to do the first side but you will have to hang it for the second side.

Making nice centreboards rudder blades and leeboards - storer boat plans

DONT put too much resin on it. Just enough to make the glass go transparent.

Work from the middle towards the ends. and down from the front edge. If you go the other way you will get air bubbles

If the resin starts getting hot in the tin throw it away and mix up less next time. A preventative for it getting too hot or pour in a tray so there is enough surface area for the heat to get away. Or be quick to get the resin out on the glass and spread it out.

You should be able to see the weave of the glass, don’t try to make the texture smooth by adding more resin.

Wait for the first coat to feel tacky/sticky and put on a second coat. You should still be able to see the weave. Dont try to fill the weave, just a nice normal coat over the whole surface. Start from middle front and work outwards. Squeegee or brush, or just use brush.

Making nice centreboards rudder blades and leeboards - storer boat plans

When that is tacky then a third coat.

Aim is about ninety percent of the weave should disappear with successive coats.

Making nice centreboards rudder blades and leeboards - storer boat plans

If you try to do it all with one coat … it will be a big mess the glass will float on the resin so you lose the smooth shape and there will be drips and runs everywhere.

That is

  1. lots of extra work
  2. a loss of the original super accurate shape wooden foil you made from the template.

Here are some other glassing techniques including the neat double bias method for doing irregular shapes like the ends of foils.

Fibreglassing method 1; small areas  eg glass tape or glass patches

Fibreglassing method 2; Double bias tape for curved surfaces

Fibreglassing method 3; Method for large areas eg glassing bottom of hull or foils

 

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On the "round Australia trip" I found myself employed by a tiny business in Adelaide - Duck Flat Wooden Boats in Adelaide.It was an eye opener - It became clear that one could build a boat for a fraction of the cost of current racing boats.My ideas hinged around high performance, easy building, fun to sail and reasonably cheapToday Storer Boats are built in all countries and we have active groups on Facebook for the following groupsGoat Island Skiff Open Goose Storer Boat plans Really Simple Sails

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