A discussion about basic pros and cons for swinging centreboards. And dagger centreboards. Centre Board means the board is in the centre. Which is different from a Lee board which is too the side.
FAQ – Building a strip canoe or kayak that can handle some impact in the surf or with rocks. Cedar Paulownia
IMPACT! How hard is your boat going to hit something. For most of us it won’t be very hard at all. So it is better to save weight. For expeditioners they may require a lot more from their boats. What are the strategies one can think about?
Never join boat decks the way you join up panels in a house. Cracks and big failures will result.
Where restoring a traditionally built boat it is important to replace parts of the structure of a similar size to those that are being replaced or missing. Those sizes are termed “scantlings” The dominant source of this type of information for traditionally built workboats in Australia is the USL Code. It would probably be OK […]
Never use silicon sealant on boats. Keep it for around the home. It will mess up repairs, it will mess up painting and nine times out of ten it won’t even stop the leak. There are better alternatives.
An older wooden or plywood boat you want to repair. And oil or diesel fuel have soaked into some of the areas you want to work on. There are no easy solutions. But this one might work.
Fixing up old and antique plywood racing sailing dinghies – International Cadet, Sabre, Sharpie, Cherub, Heron, Snipe, Lightning, Windmill, Fireball, TS16
OK … I decided to keep the old racing dinghy and fix it up. How do I put my effort in the right places to get the maximum results? A grab bag of methods for joining plywood, working out sizes, making centreboards and rudders and more.
When is it worth fixing an old racing dinghy and when is it best to ditch it?
How to repair and improve Plywood Boats – Dents, holes, replace bottom in 24 hours, making paint and varnish non skid
All the best material on boat repairs. From restoring old sailing dinghies for racing, fixing holes in canoe, replacing whole hull panels or the neatest and easiest way of doing a really nice texture of nonskid using sugar. And the non skid can be done in paint or varnish
Generally a designer will specify a range of joins that will suit the boat. Butt joins with Butt blocks for plywood boats. Also called Butt straps. I specify butt straps because they are simpler, faster and have a neat result for amateurs every time. But I do place them in the hull where they won’t […]
How much fibreglass is really necessary to prevent damage to a plywood boat for most users? For a long time I’ve been suspicious that both designers and builders are in a never ending spiral of more and more heavier fibreglass. I argue, with data from the Turner designed Jarcat, that the weights of glass are clearly excessive for most uses and users of small boats.
Melanie in the UK wrote to me. She has just bought an old Mirror dinghy and started sailing for the first time. Problem is that the boat leaks and she doesn’t want to stop using the boat until the end of the season. I have a philosophy of keeping older boats on the water and not pulling them off for months on end until you have the time to do the job. So the article here is useful to see what can be done with an old leaky plywood sailing dinghy to keep it going. It is perfect sailing weather at the moment in the UK and it is better she is out there learning but with the worst of the leaks gone. With a disciplined approach she should be able to get all of this done in a week or so. The general leaks fixed permanently and the rotted area reinforced so that the boat won’t break.
This is a problem most of use come up against at least once. However it is unlikely to happen a second time. Richard wrote to me asking why his epoxy was still soft 3 days later. He suggested it might be because of one of: 1. The immediate guess is that it’s been too cold […]
Paint vs Varnish Paint is more durable and will protect the epoxy and timber the best. Varnish hides a rough surface better. If you have done a rough job the timber grain will hide it. Make sure the varnish contains ultra-violet filters. It is a photo from the Goat Island Skiff Calendar put together by […]
Fibreglassing 3 – bigger areas – centreboards, rudders, leeboards, keels and larger hull areas requires a different method. Normally glass is draped dry over a clean dry surface and epoxy is applied to the outside and pushed in through the weave.
One of the great leaps forward available to us when using epoxy is being able to eliminate fastenings (screws,nails, bolts etc) from the structure. Many builders now only use fasteners to temporarily hold things together while the glue sets up.The temporary fasteners are removed and can be re-used many times. Eliminating fastenings also speeds up […]
Big Hole in my Boat and More – a fast professional fix Fasteners in traditional construction are the ONLY way to go – whether metal or trunnel. But once moving over to glued construction there are certain advantages in eliminating the fasteners as far as possible. We’ve made a bit of a career of it […]
Should one fibreglass using epoxy or polyester resin over wood. In this case it was to join the plywood panels of a stitch and glue boat. First, Woven fabric will give a smoother finish than chopped strand matt and is much stronger for the same weight. It also requires less filling of the weave to […]