How do you rig your Goat Island Skiff or other balance lug rigged boat? This page will be useful for everyone, but specifically assist Goat owners in selection of rope, rope lengths and show all the rigging details. We have also found a number of cheaper ways of doing things from our experience in the Philippines. Halyard, downhaul, outhaul, lashings, rope fittings, rudders, centreboard.
Several of the Group were building NACA foils. But the OzRacer and OzGoose Plans have templates for quick and accurate shaping. Making without the templates … several were feeling that they couldn’t make them to a greater accuracy than 1/16th of an inch. So some were suggesting using a CNC machine. The discussion goes on to […]
A discussion about basic pros and cons for swinging centreboards. And dagger centreboards. Centre Board means the board is in the centre. Which is different from a Lee board which is too the side.
Racing shows that what you know is what you know. It doesn’t matter if the boat is less than perfect. So where is it best to put in the effort to improve results. Boat setup, knowing how to adjust for different wind conditions, practicing skills until they become automatic, sailing as much as possible … and teaching others.
There are lots of tips for building and designing boats on the net. “Rules of thumb” are often quoted to help with the calculation of how much sail or how much keel or centreboard area or how big a mast is allowed to be and many other areas. Can a boat be stretched or shrunk or lengthened? But how correct are they? Are they the best guide?
The conservative viewpoint is that traditional rigs are not very efficient. However allied to efficient hulls and set up correctly, lug and sprit rigs can be very efficient indeed – not too much slower than “modern” rigs, particularly when the same lessons are applied to trad sails and way cheaper. This is a WIKI drawn from the group on the Storerboats forum discussions on setting up lug and sprit rigs for best performance building on the information in my webpage.
This podcast/mp3 talks about why Australian (and New Zealand) wooden boatbuilding is different from the rest of the world.. Click to listen to the talk. This is the third of three.
This talk is the first hour of my exposition on boat building and design. There are two more parts to come. This covers some of the background and design issues. The second is more on the building side and the last is a bit more about why the Australian (and New Zealand) wooden boat tradition is different from the Northern Hemisphere. You can stream the talks over your internet connection or download them as a podcast.
Gyula Ferencz (hope I have remembered his family name correctly) has launched the second OZ PDR with the lug sail. The boat sails very nicely and seems to pass the other boat easily. Gyula should be proud. (he does look proud in the close up!) That is one great looking boat!!!! The sail looks fantastic […]
The first part was up last week. This week we talk about traditional vs modern sailtypes – everyone knows I am a fan of trad rigs because of their low cost – but here I go into the influences on the other side. I love the efficiency of modern rigs so I use all the […]
Interview with Michael Storer on why Australian boats are different.
We’ve been busy playing with all sorts of things, but have now completed the new PDRacer capsize drill video. Please check this post later in the week, as Michael will provide a full written description of how best to achieve a safe recovery. Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans and Adventures in Boat Design, Restoration and […]
It was a huge co-incidence actually. I had been speaking to a couple of people about good magazines in the USA to advertise in. They both said “Small Craft Advisor“. So I emailed them. I received a reply saying that as my email arrived they had been looking at one of my web postings about […]
Fibreglassing 3 – bigger areas – centreboards, rudders, leeboards, keels and larger hull areas requires a different method. Normally glass is draped dry over a clean dry surface and epoxy is applied to the outside and pushed in through the weave.