I sent you an email Gabriel.

I recommend asking on the Storer Boat Plans as we have several Spanish and Portuguese speakers. They can advise you if it is workable and several have built the Eureka Canoe. Please feel free to ask questions there in Spanish.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/storerboatplans/

Best Regards
MIK
Michael Storer

The boat has quite a natural sitting posture. People who have found other boats uncomfortable (age, body wear and tear) find the goose very comfortable. Have you sat in one?

I’m having trouble visualising how you would be – have to be that height I guess. I would ask on the Oz Goose Facebook group – there are probably a few taller people there and it would make sense to ask them if you have a FB account. https://www.facebook.com/groups/opengoose/

Put two chairs opposite each other 810mm apart (31 inches). Put the chairs sideway so the back doesn’t get in the way. The bottom of the boat for your feet is 380 (1’3″) down from the tops of the seat. Also be aware that you can slew both your legs forward and back and in stronger winds your butt will be outside the gunwale – see if your legs have space.

Have you ever designed or modified the oz goose for a 6’5 sailor?

Because the Mirror has side stays some of the lug advantages are negated. Particularly the gentle gybes and the ability to depower the sail at more angles of sailing. You could use a standing lug but it is such a close relative of the gunter lug you already have that there is not a lot of difference. There is probably not enough boat length behind the mast to sheet to sheet a boomless mainsail to go with a boomless standing lug along with the current jib. And it won’t make a lot of difference in rigging time.

The advantages of fast rigging, the gentler gybe, and a wider range of downwind depowering work better with a freestanding mast. Not to mention the fun of learning to sail by the lee – we are trained to be scared of “by the lee” when most performance sailors on unstayed rig boats accept it as normal and spend a lot of time doing it. Imagine how it changes our feeling about gybing if we understand the boat dynamics on that point of sail so well that it is routine. If understood gybing from by the lee means the mainsail will be completely depowered and mostly flapping on the new side. No bang against the sidestays or any sort of drama.

Reefing is also easier to arrange with the other types of lug because they resolve the problems with the gunter mainsail halyard not controlling the angle of the yard once the halyard is loosened. Yes, a traveller can be fitted to the yard but they are seldom long enough to allow the deep reefs for more adventurous sailing. With the other lugs the angle of the yard doesn’t change much – single halyard, no traveller and so much simpler.

Redesigning rigs is a part of what our sailmaking business Really Simple Sails (reallysimplesails.com) does. We have drawn up balance lugs for Thistles in the USA and GP14s and Heron dinghies in Australia. The owners love the simplicity. We provide all the sparring specifications in both wood and aluminium or carbon.

At Really Simple Sails we don’t like taking a boat out of its class, but for a barn find boat with no rig it is the fraction of the cost of a stayed bermudan rig because of the tiny quantity of fittings required for a balance, standing or misainier lug.

There are two ways of going about it.

One is with the longer outriggers here that stay in the water all the time to add stability.
https://www.storerboatplans.com/boatplans/drop-in-outriggers-for-canoes-kayaks-some-dinghies-sailing-videos/

The other one is a smaller outrigger on a single crossbeam to give you stability when it touches the water – just to give you enough time to ease the sail.
Mini Outriggers Plan for Adding Sailing Canoe Stability

Best Regards
Michael

Hi Charlie,

I’ll add that to the plan page as basic info.
Hull length 2350
Beam 290
Hull Depth at middle of hull 265
Hull Depth from line joining bow and stern measured perpendicular to keel 340mm