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	Comments on: Minimal repairs to keep an old Mirror plywood sailing dinghy going	</title>
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	<link>https://www.storerboatplans.com/faq-info-about-materials-and-methods/minimal-repairs-to-keep-an-old-mirror-plywood-sailing-dinghy-going/</link>
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		<title>
		By: Michael Storer		</title>
		<link>https://www.storerboatplans.com/faq-info-about-materials-and-methods/minimal-repairs-to-keep-an-old-mirror-plywood-sailing-dinghy-going/#comment-1183</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Michael Storer]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Jun 2010 03:03:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.storerboatplans.com/wp/?p=770#comment-1183</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Hi Sharon,

All boats can leak around the centrecase area, but that doesn&#039;t mean it is acceptable!

The only mistake your mum did with the glass taping was to put it over the varnish.  If it had been to bare wood and using epoxy then it would have been a good permanent repair.  Also note what I said about making a very slight trench for the glass tape to go into using a sander to remove a little of the first layer of veneer - it is amazing how little you can remove and hide the glass completely because it is so thin ... it is in my FAQ.

Epoxy sticks to wood, the more common fibreglass resin (polyester) doesn&#039;t stick reliably which is why some older mirrors start leaking.

You can remove paint or varnish in small areas using a sander.  A more professional way is with a hot air gun and a sharpened triangular scraper (use a file to sharpen it.

With the centrecase you can fix the problem completely.  Remove paint down to bare wood to around an inch from the leaking joint.  Do an epoxy fillet as per the West booklet.  It is 100% structural.

There is a cheap little booklet you can get about boat restoration and repair - read my FAQ links as well.

West booklet PDF download - https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/Wooden-Boat-Restoration-and-Repair.pdf

My FAQ - https://www.storerboatplans.com/faq-boat-building-and-repair-methods-plywood-epoxy-fiberglass-cedar-strip/ 
Read the last article on racing dinghies and yachts ... it gives a rundown on how to not make too much work for yourself.  All the other articles will answer most questions and lead to more internet resources.

Best wishes
Michael]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Sharon,</p>
<p>All boats can leak around the centrecase area, but that doesn&#8217;t mean it is acceptable!</p>
<p>The only mistake your mum did with the glass taping was to put it over the varnish.  If it had been to bare wood and using epoxy then it would have been a good permanent repair.  Also note what I said about making a very slight trench for the glass tape to go into using a sander to remove a little of the first layer of veneer &#8211; it is amazing how little you can remove and hide the glass completely because it is so thin &#8230; it is in my FAQ.</p>
<p>Epoxy sticks to wood, the more common fibreglass resin (polyester) doesn&#8217;t stick reliably which is why some older mirrors start leaking.</p>
<p>You can remove paint or varnish in small areas using a sander.  A more professional way is with a hot air gun and a sharpened triangular scraper (use a file to sharpen it.</p>
<p>With the centrecase you can fix the problem completely.  Remove paint down to bare wood to around an inch from the leaking joint.  Do an epoxy fillet as per the West booklet.  It is 100% structural.</p>
<p>There is a cheap little booklet you can get about boat restoration and repair &#8211; read my FAQ links as well.</p>
<p>West booklet PDF download &#8211; <a href="https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/Wooden-Boat-Restoration-and-Repair.pdf" rel="nofollow ugc">https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/Wooden-Boat-Restoration-and-Repair.pdf</a></p>
<p>My FAQ &#8211; <a href="https://www.storerboatplans.com/faq-boat-building-and-repair-methods-plywood-epoxy-fiberglass-cedar-strip/" rel="ugc">https://www.storerboatplans.com/faq-boat-building-and-repair-methods-plywood-epoxy-fiberglass-cedar-strip/</a><br />
Read the last article on racing dinghies and yachts &#8230; it gives a rundown on how to not make too much work for yourself.  All the other articles will answer most questions and lead to more internet resources.</p>
<p>Best wishes<br />
Michael</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Michael Storer		</title>
		<link>https://www.storerboatplans.com/faq-info-about-materials-and-methods/minimal-repairs-to-keep-an-old-mirror-plywood-sailing-dinghy-going/#comment-1182</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Michael Storer]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Jun 2010 02:59:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.storerboatplans.com/wp/?p=770#comment-1182</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[This is another email I received on repairing Mirror Dinghies.  It is relevant for most plywood sailing dinghies.

From Sharon (my reply in the next comment).  Her mum sounds pretty cool!!!

Hi there

I read your article and communications with Melanie from UK with great interest.  My mum has a Mirror which we have enjoyed sailing a lot at Snettisham in Norfolk.  

However, in April this year we ran aground in a strongish wind and didn’t manage to raise the rudder so the rudder and fixtures snapped off.  We saved the rudder but need replacement fixtures.  

Also, last year someone got into the boat before it was fully in the water and caused a crack on one of the back seams.  My mum glass taped it last year but didn’t remove the varnish first so now the tape is peeling away and the water is coming in again.  

Furthermore, the boat has always leaked a bit around the centreplate area.  My mother fibreglassed over the self bailing as she thought (unwittingly) that was where the water was coming in.  How can we get rid of the fibreglass to get the bailer working and what’s the best thing to do around the centreplate.  My mother has been told by other Mirror owners that they usually leak a bit around that area?

Many thanks for your time and help

Sharon Jones]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is another email I received on repairing Mirror Dinghies.  It is relevant for most plywood sailing dinghies.</p>
<p>From Sharon (my reply in the next comment).  Her mum sounds pretty cool!!!</p>
<p>Hi there</p>
<p>I read your article and communications with Melanie from UK with great interest.  My mum has a Mirror which we have enjoyed sailing a lot at Snettisham in Norfolk.  </p>
<p>However, in April this year we ran aground in a strongish wind and didn’t manage to raise the rudder so the rudder and fixtures snapped off.  We saved the rudder but need replacement fixtures.  </p>
<p>Also, last year someone got into the boat before it was fully in the water and caused a crack on one of the back seams.  My mum glass taped it last year but didn’t remove the varnish first so now the tape is peeling away and the water is coming in again.  </p>
<p>Furthermore, the boat has always leaked a bit around the centreplate area.  My mother fibreglassed over the self bailing as she thought (unwittingly) that was where the water was coming in.  How can we get rid of the fibreglass to get the bailer working and what’s the best thing to do around the centreplate.  My mother has been told by other Mirror owners that they usually leak a bit around that area?</p>
<p>Many thanks for your time and help</p>
<p>Sharon Jones</p>
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