Hi Robert,

YOu can put it anywhere along the mid section of the boat really because the leeboard and the sail move together because of the design as one unit, but the best place is probably about 500 or 600mm in front of the centre spreader.

Hope this helps

BTW – my 11 year old son and I have just gone 3-D with the QC and both he and I were thoroughly impressed with how it went from floppy pieces of wood to something that looks like a real boat!

Many thanks

Hi Jerry,
For smoothwater use it would be kindof ok. I wouldn’t plan on hitting rocks in fast running water.

One “Quick Canoe” was built of 4mm plywood here.

The bottom will not be stiff enough so you would have to put some internal stiffeners from ply going across the floor. Maybe 70mm wide by 50mm narrower than the bottom of the boat at that point. Ends should be a 35mm radius. This will allow water to move from front to back too for bailing or pouring the boat out. I would definitely make the gunwales and inwales both 19 x 19 to make sure the sides are well supported at the top edge level.

It certainly would make a lighter boat.

A number of the Eurekas have been built of 4mm and that works well with the narrower panels of that boat. And the Eureka is beautiful too. Though in that case instead of bottom stiffeners as described above several have used 2oz (70gsm) woven glass cloth to make them pretty tough. This replaces all the glass tape on out outside as you can use it to cover the bottom, the two bilge panels and 25mm (one inch) onto the topsides.

For a better comparison between the Eureka and Quick Canoe – same plywood … see here

Hope this helps.

Michael

Thanks, Jerry

It is a really reasonable approach Vernon!

I have suggested this to a couple of people. The electric canoe has a much better hull for high speed than the standard Quick Canoe hull.

Also it has greater freeboard so it will match the arc of the crossbeams better. There is a potential for a really nice sailing rig with a lot of power .. though the Electric Canoe hull would need a bulkhead in line with the forward crossbeam to take the loads if really pushing performance.

Also the OZ PDR rudder will work on a transom boat much easier.

I do have an extra page or three of drawings for a bigger rig for the drop in outrigger available free to purchasers.

Michael

More Storer Boat Plans pics on Flickr

Hi Neil,
You would have to work out a seat and a hole through the hull (and probably a rudder) but no basic problems apart from the boat perhaps being too floaty unless you are carrying some gear. It really is designed for two, but it depends on your usual payload.

Some tuning of the skegs at the front and back of the boat might be necessary. And probably use two spreader bars to leave the centre of the boat clear for the seat.

Also if the seat braces the sides of the boat would be a good idea.

Best wishes
Michael

Hi Paul,

550lbs should be no problem. we had about 480lbs in one of the boats on the recentt Loire trip and the boat performed pretty well – no sense of being overloaded and plenty of freeboard.

If you really wanted to you could add an extra foot in the middle of the boat using two buttstraps. That would make it more floaty by about 60lbs if you thought you were going much over the 550lbs you project.

Best wishes
Michael