Hi Eain,

No problem … the information will work with most small boat balance and standing lugs.

For where the halyard comes down to the yard we used to use a block. Now we just put three turns of 4mm spectra with polyester outer around the yard and put the halyard through two of them (the third one pulls tight around the yard and prevents the whole shebang from slipping around much.

We find 45 to 50 percent works with most sails. But be methodical with the position, and the position of the tack of the sail relative to the mast until the sail is where the designer intended it to be in the drawings.

The advantages of this method is after the halyard goes through the loops it goes forward to the front of the yard BUT GOES ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE MAST to the yard and then ties off at the front of the yard.

No holes in the middle of the yard and no second line needed to prevent the yard moving forward or back and no parrel balls needed to stop binding as releasing the halyard loosens the tension holding the mast tightly to the yard. Zero chance of binding.

When the sail is dropped the yard comes down horizontal too rather than flips with the tip down.

The good thing about both methods is that they are both done in just rope – doesn’t cost anything – so try. For our method we put two holes in the front end of the yard – first one for the halyard tie off, second one for the throat lashing.

Hope this helps.

MIK