These two rigging videos are very detailed and step by step for initial rigging of a lugsail as part of the build process. They are focusssed on setting up the boat simply and very cheaply, particularly in comparison to other sailing rigs.
There are two stages.
Video 1
Putting everything together for the first time – as the end of the building process – Lugsail, spars, fittings, lines – this is usually done before taking the boat down to the water for the first time
Video 2
Rigging the lug rigged sailboat for its first sail – hoisting the sail and making adjustments.
There is a lot of information for all lugsail users on methods. Some aspects are specific to the rigging kits that are provided as part of the Family Boatbuilding Weekends in the Philippines. We have been growing the fleet for 5 years and are now at more than 100 boats sailing.
This has been great because we have been able to trial different methods to find out what works and is durable.
It is also CHEAP because commercial boat fittings are just not available in the Philippines. So this method shows how to rig a balance lugsail to provide an excellent sailshape for racing with the Oz Goose Sailing Fleet.
Note that the halyard system shown here is excellent for sailing dinghies, but can have chafe problems on larger yachts that are used for passagemaking.
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Video for Rigging a Lugsail 1, Putting All the parts together for the First Time
Note that the way here is using the supplied ropes for the Family Boatbuilding Weekend Kits in the Philippines. But the principles will be useful.
Most of this is a one time process. Once done and the sail correctly attached to the spars, mainsheet attached to the boom and halyard and cleat on the mast … then rigging next to the water takes under 5 minutes.
I strongly recommend this step is done at home or wherever electricity, tools and bits and pieces are needed.
There are useful notes for rope sizes and how to minimise the number of fittings below this first video.
Video For Rigging a Lugsail 1 of 2 – see below for second video.
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Tools for rigging a Lug rig the first time
Drill – cordless with screwdrive bits is the most convenient. Set on low speed for screwdriving and high speed for drilling. Screwdriver bits to suit the fastenings you have available.
5mm drill bit
Tape measure or ruler.
Lighter to seal ends of lines (inefficiently for spectra)
Self amalgamating tape for sealing the ends of spectra lines a bit more efficiently.
Some use heatshrink tubing – some types come with glue (electronics hobby shops). Feedback to us in the comments below if you have used it for sealing the ends of spectra lines.
Spectra line for everything but the mainsheet Eliminates deck fittings completely.
Many details of how to use the spectra line to replace manufactured fittings are detailed in the first video for rigging a lugsail.
A really important aspect of what we do is to use 4mm line with a spectra core for everything but the mainsheet. The spectra line completely replaces any need for deck fittings for the lug rig.
For mainsails of over 100sf (9.3sqm) or those with heavy yards (why?) then we move up to 5mm Spectra for the halyard.
Note that too thick spectra lines will not give the low stretch characteristics of spectra. So stick to these guidelines for sailing dinghies and trailer boats up to 20ft.
The reason is that the lines of any type have two types of stretch. Initial stretch as the fibres pull straight and the air gaps in the line get squeezed closed. Only then does the load go onto the spectra core. So too thick a line means being stuck in the first stage.
Mainsheet selection for the lug rig and the Cheapest grippy Dinghy Sailing Gloves
We use 6mm (1/4″) double braid for the 89sqf Oz Goose Balance lug.
We use 8mm (5/16″) double braid for the 105sqf Goat Island Skiff Balance Lug.
Mainsheet diameters that are not too big are an important safety factor as they are much easier to ease or release in an emergency. If they abrade your hands get some 3M Comfort Grip Gloves and modify them as per the drawing right if you want fingertips available for fussy work. They are cheap, grippy and will last a season of intense sailing use.
Minimum Fittings Kit for a lug rig
The only rigging fittings needed are a 5″ (125mm) plastic horn cleat and a stainless steel ring at the top of the mast. For sails bigger than 95sqf (9sqm) or sails with heavy yards replace the stainless steel ring witn a non ball bearing block.
The cheapest way for the mainsheet blocks (we use 3 on the Oz Goose or 4 on the Goat Island Skiff) is to use plain bearing blocks (no ball bearings) and able to handle a mainsheet a couple of mm larger than what you choose.
So if using a 6mm mainsheet get blocks with clearance for 8mm. If using 8mm mainsheet get 10mm clearance.
A ratchet block is a nice addition to make handling the mainsheet a bit easier on boats with bigger sails. Recommended on sails larger than 40sqft for kids and 70sqf for adults. The cheaper brands we have found reliable are Ronstan, RWO, Holt. On last survey Harken gear is much too expensive.
There is also a photo series of this method for rigging Lugsails here
Now that is done … and everything packed up for taking sailing tomorrow … lets look at what happens by the water.
Video for Rigging A Lugsail Boat to go Sailing the First time – Oz Goose method.
Because everything was set up in the previous step, rigging up by the water will be quick and easy every time.
Still take down a good knife/scissors and whatever method you used for sealing the ropes just in case. Also a few screws and the cordless drill. Probably won’t need them, but if you don’t take them … you will need!
DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE THE TENSION NEEDED in the DOWNHAUL!!! If your boom is wobbling while sailing, if it is difficult to get upwind or there is a diagonal crease to the clew (back bottom corner of the sail) with or without mainsheet tension … then downhaul is not on hard enough.
Article – What is that crease on my Lugsail – Diagnose and fix.
Video For Rigging a Lugsail 2 of 2 – see Above for second video.
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